![]() ![]() FA, īaseBoard Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. Processor AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3960X 24-Core Processor, 3800 Mhz, 24 Core(s), 48 Logical Processor(s)īIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. System Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. Re: Solved Significant input lag in terminal prompt Changing to UXA fixed the keyboard lag for me, but caused jumpy display problems playing DVD's with VLC on my Dell Latitude laptop. Here is a quick copy and paste from system32: Here are some screens from CPU-Z and Core Temp for insight: Ruled out Soundblaster, USB Hub, and a few other low-hanging fruit Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 1200W PSUĬorsair QLs, Commander Node Pro, Three Lighting Nodes If anyone has a spare moment to take a look for me I'd be forever grateful!!! I'm at my rope's end here There is lag in running programs and such at times also. The MX mouse connected the same way works, and power cycling the keyboard solves it. This usually happens after the computer has been to sleep. When connecting my Logitech MX keyboard directly using bluetooth, I sometimes get an extreme input lag (1 second) and it even drops some of my keystrokes. The mouse cursor does, but there is no lag in typing. Extreme input lag with bluetooth keyboard. Windows is behaving as if I am at 100% capacity, although it doesn't completely mirror that scenario. ![]() Brand new install of Windows 10 Pro, drivers updated from AMD, BIOS updated from Gigabyte, GPU drivers updated from Nvidia, and random drivers all installed for various peripherals and such. Once again, all drivers are updated (GPU, Chipsets, BIOS, Sound, etc.). Slow, unresponsive and inconsistent mouse movements. I still experience input lag in games/desktop/bios. ago Update: so, I bought a new 1000W PSU (Seasonic Focus Plus SSR-1000FX ) and it's still not fixed. After the PSU died and took my mobo with it, I replaced it with my current Gigabyte mobo. 11 comments Best Add a Comment ryAzo 5 mo. It's been a nightmare for a multitude of reasons, but the latest one has me stumped. I recently decided to build a new PC workstation for my home office. The only thing I noticed that is unusual is CPU temps a little high for load. Ranges from non-existent to frozen, with most of the time so choppy that I can't even click on buttons effectively. Sporadic input lag in Windows 10 despite computer being close to idle. Someone else suggested disabling Cortana, though I don't see how that would affect mouse input.Īnother thing to test would be to unplug all other USB devices and hubs aside from the mouse and keyboard, to see whether one of them might be interfering in some way.New to forum, and here in desperation as I watch my business crumble while this computer sucks the remaining soul I have left. Response time is the speed at which your monitor can change the color of. I see some others suggesting that going into the Windows "Mouse & Touchpad" options and turning off the "Scroll Inactive Window When I Hover Over It" setting did the trick. Input lag is the delay between your mouse, keyboard, or controller input and the corresponding image on your screen. Some mentioned simply updating to the latest version of Windows fixed it. If you want to try to fix it first then: 1) Go over Windows using this checklist to make sure the install is set up correctly, optimized for best performance, and any needed repairs get done. Weird input lag in every game, I feel the input even on my desk when I type, mouse and keyboard feels heavy by Smokq, 10:37 Hi everyone, i'm having an issue which is making me go crazy: In every game/app i'm experiencing a slight input delay which makes it unplayable and frustrating. Looking online, I see various different ways people found to fix the issue, so I'm not sure which solution might be accurate, or if it might vary from one computer to the next. Now that I think of it, there had been reports of some people experiencing mouse input lag when moving to Windows 10, so perhaps it's related to that. Do you have the latest version of the Razer Synapse 3 software installed for your mouse? Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling Synapse to see if there might be a problem with the installation? ![]()
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Where would you direct me to narrow down which hybrid/all mountain snowboard would be best to purchase?įeel free to impose all your opinions onto me! I haven't found a comprehensive review type of site (I found snowboardrobot, the site is a bit underwhelming in highlighting what I should be looking for when distinguishing the same types, although it may be because I'm a noob that I can't appreciate the content)ĭo you agree with my thought process on getting a hybrid camber? If not, why and what do you recommend instead? With that said, now I'm at a point in which my question is - which hybrid camber & all mountain boards should I be looking at? Since I'm a beginner, I don't see myself doing any terrain parks, deep powder, backcountry, or ungroomed trails. Second, I believe I would get an all mountain board - I'm still a beginner ( just started linking my turns, working on toe edge now). Sounds the most optimal to me (thoughts?) So from what I've read, I think want a hybrid camber, to get a mix of rocker and camber features. Looking to cop a board, I understand the categories to read up on are: r/SkiBuddies (Find people to ride with!) ![]() Where can I get a file to print my own shreddit sticker?Ī snowboarding inspired collaborative Spotify Playlist Whoa! What the hell was that trick/grab/spin?Ī rough guide to stance and binding setup Where can I find cheap lift tickets for.? How to choose a snowboard - shape, size, rocker, etc. We try to keep /r/snowboardingnoobs a friendly place for riders of all skill levels.Īs is the policy for all Reddit communities, blogspam is forbidden. As much as we love helping each other out, we really hate repeating ourselves.ĭon't be a dick to people (name-calling, etc.). Please be sure to read the sidebar before posting. Shreddit 4 noobs - For new snowboarders, or vets that want to act that way. 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In Civ III your optimum attack mode was a mega stack of units that the enemy could peel back one by one, but not before you took their city. In Civ II if you stacked units and one died, they all died. I had forgotten that this version was the start crazy stacking era. It looks a bit it raw, but my current CPU meant that processing computer players during their turns was no big deal, so things went along quickly. It also took a few tries to get it to launch and it crashed out to desktop… a completely resized and reorganized desktop because of screen resolution, something I will never stop complaining about… so once again we’re reminded why auto-save is a default option in the series. Today a lot of the UI feels really dated… not bad, but much closer to the earlier games in view an concept… and it has to be played full screen at a resolution that means all the open windows in the background will be completely messed up. I only have the base game, so my quick replay used that. It also looks fairly good the UI doesn’t look like it was from Windows 3.1, Oh, and actually supports the Steam overlay so you can take screen shots, though there are no achievements. Plays fast and smooth… more so that Civ V I would say. My memories of it are also of a much more complicated game than previous versions… doesn’t that apply to every title in the sequence… but today it seems oddly light and sparse. Maybe it was always there and I missed it back in the day. They did eventually add a windowed mode, which has been a part of the series ever since. I wrote to their support about the issue and they told me I shouldn’t tab out of the game. I think my main bias against this version is that at launch it ran VERY slowly on my system and was part of the three game generation that insisted on being full screen and would crash when I tried to alt-tab out to look something up. We are now in the pre-Steam era, though I recall I bought my copy online and downloaded it over what passed for the internet back then, some flavor of ADSL. Maybe my second favorite version of the game, interesting choices, the end of massive unit stacking, though still prone to some quirks and not as fast as I would expect a title this old to be.Ībility to play today: 95% Civilization IV – 2005 It is, as noted, a title I have spent a lot of time with, it has Steam achievements, scenarios, and the things that make Civ fun. ![]() Overall, a solid if somewhat divisive entry in the series. There is also a ton of Steam Workshop mods and scenarios for the game. They are okay, but like a lot of Civ expansions they completely changed how the game felt. ![]() There are two expansions about which I am less than thrilled. The base game is generally available for cheap during any sale. I was able to get through a medium size game in an afternoon and evening. It runs at a sprightly pace now, the computer opponents being very quick until you get into deep late-game with tons of units on the field. A re-install fixed the issue and I was able to play. I had to re-download it because the copy I had on my drive, last played in 2019, simply refused to launch. It is still there and playable, though it can be a bit problematic. It didn’t really stick with me, feeling like a watered down Alpha Centauri mixed in with the almost maniacal love of unnecessary graphical detail that tends to grip the series. I suppose, as a side question, is any of the DLC worthwhile? Does it improve the game? My impressions are all from the base game, which was unexciting enough… I am really not interested in how my cities look as long as they are producing units for war as an example… that I went back to Civ V.Ībility to play today: 100% Civilization: Beyond Earth – 2014 But for just me to play for maybe 2 hours… not so much. If we got the one-time “strategy group” back together for Friday night games or some such I would grab it. That isn’t a huge amount in this day and age, but it is more that I was willing to invest in going back to play it. ![]() While it probably runs better on my current machine than it did on the one I had when it launched, it is also 16+ GB to download. ![]() ![]() ![]() This extractor works like a standard drill. There is a type of extractor similar to a hollow cylinder but with saw-cut teeth heads. So, rotating it counterclockwise unscrews the broken screw such that you can eventually remove it from the hole by hand. What makes the extractor an exciting tool is that it has reverse threading. As a result, the tapered end of the extractor penetrates the broken screw and firmly attaches to the head or shank. Once the extractor firmly fits into the pilot hole, turn it as you would fasten in a screw. Then, with adequate pressure, place the extractor into the pilot hole and tap the extractor into the hole with a hammer. It may be a convenient T-handle or locking plier. The pilot hole is set, so what next? Attach a grip to a suitable extractor. Also, to prevent overheating the drill bit, you may need to apply a few drops of cutting fluid before drilling. Generally, the nature of the broken screw head and the size of the extractor will determine how much you should drill. Many extractor sets contain various sizes to meet your needs. However, be careful to drill with a gentle motion otherwise, the bit will get overheated and may break. Using a bit with a smaller diameter, bore a hole in the middle of the screw. Once you’ve selected a suitable extractor, the next step is to drill a pilot hole. Most extractors are easy to use, even if it’s your first time. To have a variety to choose from, it is best to get a screw extractor set. Although, many extractors are multipurpose and can remove other fasteners. These extractors come in various sizes hence, selecting a suitable extractor that fits the screw you wish to remove is essential. The body of the extractor is threaded and tappers at the other end. There are different extractors, including spiral flute and straight flute, among others. Also, a locking plier can serve as a grip for the extractor however, the T-handle has a better grip. ![]() ![]() The extractor is made from hard steel and usually resembles a standard drill bit. The top end of the extractor is square-headed, allowing you to opt for various operating methods.įor example, you can attach the square head to a T-handle to help rotate the extractor. You can use this tool to remove damaged screws and bolts. 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Get 30% off Pixelmator Pro with a limited-time Back to School offer. ![]() ![]() To tie it all together, here’s a method described by Reddit user xhrequest: Download the latest version of DS4Windows, turn off Steam gamepad emulation, disable the In-Game overlay in Nvidia Experience, select Hide DS4 Controller in the DS4Windows … As the DualShock 4 loses charge, it can lose its connectivity strength, causing some input issues. The guy in the video grazes over it saying only that he isn't responsible for anything that happens, but more emphasis needs to be put on the fact this can (and there's a good chance it will, in some form, and at some point in time) damage your controller.Ds4windows input lag devices menu. I just feel like there wasn't due diligence done (even in the video itself) as to what this can do to your controller - and if anything it seems like it's being downplayed. I don't want to come off like I'm shitting on deathstroke, as I appreciate these types of 'hacks' as much as the next guy and anything that potential reduces input lag is going to catch my interest, even if it's minuscule. No different than overclocking a PC which can have seriously negative effects if you don't know what you're doing (but imo in this case it's arguably worse, since there aren't really diagnostics where you can monitor how your controller is handling the workload as with a computer - least as far as I'm aware). I'm not saying not to do it - just know what you're getting into. The guy in the video grazes over it saying only that he isn't responsible for anything that happens, but more emphasis needs to be put on the fact this can (and there's a good chance it will, in some form, and at some point in time) damage your controller. To make things even more muddled, even with PC being the better option lag wise, Steam can add latency if it's applying controller support for a game.Ĭlick to expand.Well said. If someone was noticing a difference between platforms is also more likely that they are noticing those things, which are larger sources of lag, then an additional 7ms on a controller. So, it's possible for someone to end up with a lot less lag on PC just by accident and virtue of PS4 tending to suffer more as a platform than PC. TV's are much better than they were even a couple years ago, but you still have to be deliberate about what you buy to make sure you don't have several frames of delay added by your display device. ![]() On PC people naturally tend to end up using monitors which trends towards lower display lag over TV's. Upper SC6 players say SC6 on PS4 still has a gross amount of input latency compared to PC, and just don't want to go near that version of the game. I think it's still higher but it's better than it was. Like Tekken used to have much higher input latency on PS4 than PC and it was something they worked to improve. Sometimes efforts have been made to lower the problem, and other times not. Not sure about MK, but many FG's using the Unreal Engine have had additional latency on PS4. If you aren't using the same display or even if you aren't using the same kind of display the same way, you could have a major lag source on one that isn't on the other. Lag sources aggregate and this is just one, small lag source. At 3ms you probably more reliably nail the next frame window, with more rare instances of being bumped the additional frame.Īll that really focused on how FG's work, and the people interested in this may actually be running other kinds of games at upwards of 100+ fps.Ĭlick to expand.Lag in general between consoles and PC is a pretty layered. Sometimes end up processed in the very next frame, and sometimes the one after. ![]() ![]() At over half a frame you would probably very consistently end up in different frames of delay. If the input takes half a frame, and you miss the polling window, then you likely roll over to the next frame. I guess I'm not really sure how the input polling would play out, but I'm assuming the input becomes available during one frame, and then is read as part of a new frame when the the event loop starts up again. Depending on when the signal is sent you have a better than half a chance that the button push will actually end up in a later frame than if it was lower. At 10ms you are more than half a frame deep. Click to expand.It's not bad, but the fact that the floor is under 3ms is nice to try and cozy up to. ![]() |
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